Volkswagen Jetta vs. Toyota Corolla ??

[Big Frank]

Up to 6,000 fatal crashes each year may be caused by drowsy drivers, so anything that prevents that would be good. If it's not also running over or scaring pedestrians and cyclists.

[Timothy]

I have never dozed off either.  If it comes to the point that I cannot operate a vehicle alertly and safely, I’ll quit.

[Big Frank]

I felt like I was going to fall asleep on the the way to or from work more often than not. It's a good thing it wasn't more than a 20 minute ride, and I no longer work.

[Rastus]

I was working for someone  back in the 90's that bought 24 Caterpillar 3516 diesels ....2,000 HP industrial units made to run at that HP day in and day out.  Their scientists/engineers/technicians preached synthetic oil for long life.  Also, that the #1 cause of failure in turbochargers is coking on the bearings.  They suggested a "cool down" run when shutting them down....idle the sucker for a minute before you shut it off.  I try to do that with all my diesel turbo's since they run red hot...before shutting them down I  let them idle for 30 seconds....more if it's hot and a hard run.

Synthetic oil is made to tolerate high temperatures so...it's best if you have a turbo by far.  It doesn't coke up the turbo bearings like normal motor oils...I have 394,000 on a 7.3L Excursion and 208,000 on an F250 6.0L that tends to back that up.

Also, maybe some of you guys want to look up a prelube system.  Every industrial unit I've worked with or on in the last 40 years over say 400 HP had a prelube system.  I know there are some prelube systems out there for automobiles...but I don't have the time to research.  If you want really long engine life then a prelube system is a great way to extend life at a not too high of a cost.

In fact...if you do start looking at prelubes to what is best and find one for an 8 cylinder F150 let me know...I'm ordering an F150 this week.

[billt]

I agree 100%. If every new car sold today had an automatic pre oiler, that kicked in as soon as the drivers door was opened, car engines would last all but indefinitely. Because it's a proven fact that most all engine wear occurs at startup, and during the first minute of operation. Which is most likely why the manufacturers don't provide them.

It's the same with turbochargers. If people allowed an idle, "cool down" period of just 30 seconds to a minute like you mentioned, their life would be extended tremendously.

[Sponsor]

[TAB]

I love pressurized  pre oilers, every boat I have ever built has had one.

[billt]

Now my only concern is what gas to use in this new Toyota? The manual is a bit open ended, and say's to use a minimum of 87 Octane, (or 91 Research Octane), or higher. I'm wondering if this will be enough in the hot Arizona Summer months, when knocking can easily occur when the engine is placed under a load, like climbing uphill or accelerating on to a freeway.

My 1991 F-150, (5.0 V-8) knocks like crazy unless I use 91 Octane Premium in it. (The manual say's it should run on 87 Octane). My 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 HEMI V-8 say's to use 89 Octane ("Mid Grade"). But I also use 91 Octane Premium in it as well. It performs much better, and never knocks. Also, 89 Octane "Mid Grade" isn't always available in every station. Especially if you get out of the city.

The engine compression ratio in this new Camry 4-cylinder is listed at 13 to 1, which is very high. The car was delivered with a full tank. I have no idea what type of fuel they put in it. It doesn't knock, but admittingly I'm babying it until it's gets at least a few hundred miles on it, and gets somewhat broken in. So it's not going to knock under relaxed driving conditions in the mild temperatures we're experiencing now. (50's to 70's).

Also, the computer in these modern vehicles is capable of constantly adjusting the timing while driving, to adapt to any fuel without knocking or engine damage. But they can only detune the engine just so much to compensate.

This thing gets such good fuel economy, (I'm averaging almost 40 MPG driving around town with it), I'm tempted to just run 91 Octane Premium in it and be done with it. I don't like the open ended "recommendation" of 87 Octane.... "Or Higher". I'm tempted to use "higher" with a 13 to 1 compression engine. And not worry about the few extra cents a gallon it costs. I'll save money elsewhere.

[Big Frank]

If it runs good on 87 octane and you're putting 91 in it, you're just wasting money. Around here that would probably be 25 cents per gallon difference. I'm not exactly sure because I haven't had to buy anything higher than 87 octane in several years. It makes a big difference when your gas tank holds around 35 gallons. That would be an extra $8.75 for me. If it was my car I'd fill it with 87 octane and see if it knocks or not. If it does you could add some octane booster until your next fill up.

[billt]

I'll most likely try that. As I said, I've got no idea what they put in it when I bought it. Most likely 87 Octane. I don't even know if Toyota makes an engine that requires 91 Octane Premium. It's just that 13 to 1 compression scares me on 87 Octane. Especially when it's 115 F outside in the Summer.

This Toyota 2.5 Liter 4-cylinder makes 203 horsepower. Compared to my 1991 Ford F-150, which is a 5.0 Liter V-8, any only produces 185 horsepower. And it's got twice the cylinders and displacement.

[Timothy]

I burn 91 in my turbo once in a while.  It is designed to make max HP of 248 on the grade and if I keep my foot out of and run at 65 for extended trips it gets better mileage!  My problem is like Franks!  It’s 40-50 cents a gallon more than 87 octane.