Changing Grips On A Sig Handgun (PITA) !

[billt]

I had one of my pistols hard chrome plated and it never flaked or got scratched or anything.

Hard Chrome is much different, and far more durable, than the high gloss Nickel plating that early pistols like the Colt Python, Single Action Army, and S&W Model 29's were treated with. Don't confuse matte finished Hard Chrome plating with the "Chrome Plating" found on car bumpers. (At least cars from the 60's). Now they're all rubberized plastic.

[Big Frank]

Hard Chrome is much different, and far more durable, than the high gloss Nickel plating that early pistols like the Colt Python, Single Action Army, and S&W Model 29's were treated with. Don't confuse matte finished Hard Chrome plating with the "Chrome Plating" found on car bumpers. (At least cars from the 60's). Now they're all rubberized plastic.

The chrome on my slide is only matte where it's supposed to be and the sides are polished. It looks about the same as stainless steel. And thanks for the info on the Sig screws. I don't have one but that could help out a lot of other people. 

[billt]

One other thing I would add, that is yet another PITA with ANY Sig grip screws that you order from Sig. Is the fact they ALL come with that stupid thread sealing compound already on the threads. This stuff is a royal PITA, because it makes it extremely difficult to start the screw into the threads. It also makes it very easy to cross thread the screw into the frame. Then you're royally screwed.

If they're so damn insistent on using this crap, I wish they would simply include a small squeeze packet of the stuff with the screws. Instead of putting it all over the threads, letting it harden, thereby making it all but impossible to properly install them. Sig frames are Aluminum, and it's easy enough to strip these small threads out without fighting this junk all over the screw. It also make it very difficult to feel when you have contacted the grip, so you can feel when to stop torqueing.

It's almost as if Sig sat down and tried to come up with the best way to make changing grips on any of their handguns as difficult as humanly possible. They've succeeded, believe me.

[Rastus]

Had a bad day, have we?

[billt]

Anyway, now that all of the nonsense is behind me, the gun looks 100 times better without those cheap plastic grips.

[Sponsor]

[Rastus]

That is nice.  It's a shame that it was such a problem to get right.

This has been a good post.  Different screws, how they vary and will affect the job.  Preapplied lock coating on the screws being a problem with the fine machine threads....

This was a good one to share Bill.

Is your day going better now that you're finished?   

[billt]

That is nice.  It's a shame that it was such a problem to get right.

This has been a good post.  Different screws, how they vary and will affect the job.  Preapplied lock coating on the screws being a problem with the fine machine threads....

This was a good one to share Bill.

Is your day going better now that you're finished?   

Yes. All is well. It was an overall PITA, but in the end it turned out well. I'm happy with the gun. The wood grips are more hand filling as well. As far as the pre applied lock coating, what I did was this. I first oiled the threads in the frame of the gun, as well as the screws. Be sure to get some on the red coating. It will help soften it.

I then placed the grip into place, and dropped a screw into the hole. I have a good set of Brownell's gunsmithing screwdrivers. Be sure you have the correct screw to fit the slot. A little trick I do is use a small piece of paper towel between the bit and the screw slot. This prevents any marring of the bluing on the screw itself. Then slowly turn in the screw 1 or 2 turns. I then pause and back out the screw a half turn or so. Then go in another turn, then back out a half turn again. I keep doing this SLOWLY until I feel the screw make contact with the grip.

You can keep checking your progress by seeing if the grip is loose. I kept going no more than a half turn at a time until I made contact, and then STOPPED. This is necessary because you cannot feel when you have tightened the screw sufficiently. There is resistance all the way because of the locking agent. If you try to go straight in and, "gorilla it", you will strip the thread. By backing the screw in and out several times, you "work in" the locking agent into the threads slowly, and give it repeated chances to "flow" in and around the threads. The constant in and out of the screw will help soften the compound. This, along with the oil helps. (I just used light motor oil). But I'm sure any oil, or even light grease will work fine. The oil will also prevent any chance of galling the fine threads.

When you finally seat the screw on the grip, the locking agent will hold it tight enough. If you want to get around all of this, buy the Sig grip screws from Hogue instead of Sig. I don't think they apply that crap to the grip screws they sell. Midway sells Hogue grip screws for Sig handguns. I didn't discover this until I had already ordered them from Sig. Live and learn.

 

[Solus]

I do wonder if this PITA is a measure to encourage factory installation of new grips? 

It sure isn't aimed at paving the way for the DIY owner.

[Timothy]

Sig aftermarket grips can interfere with their springs.  Be sure function isn't affected.

[billt]

Sig aftermarket grips can interfere with their springs.  Be sure function isn't affected.

The slide release, magazine release, and safety work as intended.